Most of my inspiration comes from movies and TV shows. I have spoken about movies quite a bit on my last blog (which is here), but I haven't put up a movie post here yet. So, as a way to procrastinate studying for final exams, I decided to write my longest blog post yet about pretty clothes. If you like fashion and are a fan of movies, let me know what your favourite costume films are in the comments below! I am always on the lookout for more inspiration.
Phantom Thread, directed by Paul Thomas Anderson, 2017
I love this movie. I can't even tell you how much I love everything about this movie. The soundtrack, the cinematography, the storyline, and the costumes are all pitch perfect. I especially love how much research the costume designer Mark Bridges put into this. It is probably the most accurate sewing film I have seen so far, and the level of detail they managed to get into each scene is impeccable. They actually hired real seamstresses to be the ones working in the film, and the lady who played Bitty used to work as head seamstress at Balenciaga (who they based Reynolds Woodcock off of). I loved all of the attention they put into the layers of couture dresses as well. Even modern couture dresses usually have a sort of corset layer with petticoats built into the dress, and they showed all of that on screen. Honestly, I love every costume in the film. But if I have to pick a favourite, I have three that I keep saved on my computer to stare at when I am feeling uninspired. The first is the strapless silk green gown with the shawl, pictured above. I love the simplicity of this, and the luxurious colours they made it out of. That colour of green is one of my favourites, and the cut of the silk gives it such a gorgeous drape. I can imagine the rustling sound that it must make when she walks (the sound of a silk dress moving is a heavenly sound, only second to the feel of a proper velvet).
The second look that I consistently include in my lists of favourite costumes is the red and black lace dress that I have pictured at the top of the post. Alma doesn't wear this costume for long, only for a dinner scene, but I think it is such a unique design. The high colour is delicate in lace, and the red silk petals in the skirt are both refined and cute. I can imagine how much skill it would take to make this gown, so for that alone I think it requires some attention.
And I couldn't forget the black lace dress that Alma wears to Barbara Rose's wedding. It is such a classic design, but the shaping and incredible lace overlay makes sure that it is far from boring. The silk kimono coat that she wears over it as they triumphantly leave is picture perfect, and the two together make me a little misty eyed at their perfection (I am not kidding about this, I regularly tear up at especially beautiful dresses). I am thinking that one day I will have to make a party dress inspired by this.
In the Mood for Love, directed by Wong Kar-wai, 2000
If you have read my blog before, or know me in real life, you will know that I talk about this film a lot. A lot. I even wrote a paper of the meaning of Su Li-zhen's different cheongsams for my film class last year. She wears somewhere between 20 and 25 different cheongsams throughout the film, some only being worn for a single scene. Each is made from the same basic pattern with the sleeves, fabric, and collar height changing. Each is essential to the mood of the scene, giving the viewers a direct look at her emotions and hopes. Although I love every single one, I am especially fond of the bright green plaid one, pictured above. In this one you can see the level of attention put into sewing them. All of the lines match up as perfectly as possible, and the stiff collar gives such an incredible silhouette. The pattern and colour of this fabric takes a traditional style and makes it fresh and 1960's (the era that the film is set).
The cheongsam worn in the scene pictured below is probably my favourite in the whole movie. The silk has different coloured threads for the warp and the weft of the clothe, making it go from green to red. Along with the cap sleeves and her perfect hair, she looks so poised and romantic in this one.
The third cheongsam that I wanted to bring up is this black and white floral number. If I remember correctly, she wears this dress with an A-line red coat a scene later, and the image of that will forever stay in my head. I love the contrast between a highly structured dress with the soft floral print, and it makes the scenes it is worn in just that much more indelible.
Seriously, if you have the chance to watch this movie and you haven't before, do yourself a favour and watch it.
And Then There Were None, 2015 Mini Series
If you like Agatha Christie, this mini series is a must see. And Then There Were None is my all time favourite murder mystery, and this version caught the dark notes of the book so well. Although there aren't tons of costumes in this show, and they certainly aren't the main point of it, there are a few costumes that I love so dearly that I just had to add it. First of all, the suit that Vera arrives in (the purple and green, pictured above), is a suit I dream of replicating. As a sucker for quilted clothing, the lines of stitching in both the skirt and jacket have me weak at the knees. The big buttons of the suit jacket are a lovely touch too, but I just can't get over the seam work in this suit set. This series is set in the late 1930's, just before World War Two, and that is one of my favourite eras for clothing. I think the costume designer caught the time perfectly, and she used lots of genuine vintage to make the outfits look natural and worn.
The other dress that I love (and desparately want to make for myself!) is this navy dress Vera wears for dinner. The colour is stunning, and I love that detail at the neckline. The seam under the bust is so 1930's, as is the length and gentle A-line of the skirt. Paired with those darling shoes, this look is perfect for even modern day use.
Atonement, directed by Joe Wright, 2007
Almost everyone knows the iconic green dress from Atonement, and as impressive as that dress is, my favourite costumes from this movie are the 1930's day looks that Cecilia wears. It was so difficult to find a picture of the wrap (I think?) dress that she wears while greeting her brother, but it is probably my favourite outfit of the entire movie. First, look at those shoes! And that perfect mid-calf length skirt! The flounces down the front! The subtle print on the fabric! This look is everything I love of 1930's fashion, all put into one exquisite ensemble.
My other favourite look is the silk skirt and blouse that Cecilia wears when the vase breaks. This is a bit more modern, with the print on the skirt and the shirt unbuttoned, but I love the drape and slide of the fabric. It is so graceful and delicate, and the big buttons of the skirt add such a brilliant contrast. Every time I see this outfit I just want to reach through the screen and touch it.
Testament of Youth, directed by James Kent, 2014
Before I say anything about the clothing, I would like everyone to know that this is not a silly romance film. The way that the movie poster was made makes it look like a period drama romance (which there is nothing wrong with, of course!). However, Testament of Youth is based off of the memoir of the same name, by the famous pacifist Vera Brittain. Brittain's book is heartfelt and beautiful and so sad all at the same time, I would highly recommend it. The film was done well, and I loved that they put a lot of effort into the clothing since Vera Brittain actually really loved fashion. Although this movie is set during the rationing of World War 1, I think they did a great job at mixing fashion and sensibility, and they really nailed the silhouette. My favourites were her coat and beret sets, since the coats all had a lovely waistline with little details.
The Dressmaker, directed by Jocelyn Moorhouse, 2015
I could never have a movie list without including the 1950's couture looks from The Dressmaker with Kate Winslet. I gasped out loud the first time I saw the trailer, and the movie did not disappoint. I have many fashion kryptonites, but one of my biggest ones is women saying and doing badass things in beautiful dresses. Every look has drama and craftsmanship and luscious fabrics. It's really all you could ask for in a movie about a dressmaker. Also, lets take a moment to admire the vintage Singer she uses in the picture above.
Once you have finished admiring that lovely little machine, we can talk about my first favourite dress in the movie, which is this black and white dress with pleated sleeves. You can catch me drooling over this most days. I love statement sleeves, and this dress has the biggest, loveliest sleeves I have ever seen. It is so classic Dior, and with the backdrop of a run down Australian town, it is even more jaw-dropping.
My next favourite is the red dress that Kate Winslet wears to the football game. I love this mostly because it is so reminiscent of one of my favourite Dior cocktail dresses, just in red instead of soft blue. The asymmetrical neckline with that huge skirt is just glorious. Once again, the backdrop of the movie makes everything just that much more divine.
I have to admit that every single costume in the film is pretty fantastic. I'm not sure if I am actually bringing up my favourites, or if these are just the ones that I can remember at the moment. No matter what, I couldn't mention this movie without showing you the strapless cream dress pictured below. The details in this dress are staggering, and it is such a bombshell dress. This would feel right at home in a Marilyn Monroe movie.
Anna Karenina, directed by Joe Wright, 2012
The first time I saw this movie was the year that it came out, which was most definitely too young an age to watch it (oops). However, I was immediately struck by the costumes, and I have admired them ever since. There is some controversy on this films costumes by historical costumers since it is not accurate, but that is really the reason that I love them so much. Jacqueline Durran, who designed the costumes, expertly mixed 1870's fashion and 1950's couture styles, and created a sumptuous, indulgent fantasy. Along with the theater setting, I think that the inaccurate fashions work perfectly.
Quite frankly, I love every costume in this movie. The bustles and layers of textures on her ballgowns are incredible, and the asymmetrical necklines on some of her bodices remind one of Dior. However, there are two dresses that have always stood out to me. The first is pictured above: Kitty's travelling coat with the fur trim. I love the monochrome of this look, and Durran has such skill in layerin different textures to make it really pop out of the screen. It suits the rest of Kitty's costumes, just a bit more of a mature version. It follows her storyline beautifully, which is one of the reasons why Durran has so many awards for costume design.
My other favourite costume in the film is this travelling outfit of Annas with the peacock coat. First of all, the cut of the coat is stunning. It sits nicely over the bustle, then turns into a dramatic sleeve. You can see the 1870's influence in the cut and seaming, but the drape of the bustle modernizes the outfit. Plus, the peacock feathers were specifically chosen to show Anna's inevitable downfall, once again proving that Durran is a master at creating a storyline purely from clothing alone.
The Fall, directed by Tarsem Singh, 2006
Eiko Ishioka is another costume designer that you should know the name of. I have two of her films in this list (the second one is coming up next), but my favourite will always be The Fall. The Fall is one of my favourite movies, not just because it is beautiful (and it really is - everything aspect of this film is a masterpiece), but because the story is heartwarming and sad and enduring. The film flips back and forth between a hospital in the 1930's and a story that a little girl is being told. Tarsem Singh filmed it in 28 different countries, in some of the most grand locations around the world. In such an epic, the costumes really had to step up their game, and Ishioka hit the perfect note with her head pieces. I wanted to show a few costumes, but I could only find good photos of this red one. I feel like I don't have to explain why I love this ensemble so much when you can see the photos yourself, but lets take a stab at it. First of all, the fan covering the face makes the character wearing it so mysterious and enigmatic, and the red stands out brilliantly in the desert where they shot the scene. And those sleeves! That style and size of sleeve was something that Ishioka used in many of her designs throughout the years, and this one was so special with the layers of embroidered trim. This costume encapsulates the adventure and grandeur and magnificence of this story. If you happen to watch the movie at some point, also keep an eye out for a white wedding dress, which happens to be my other favourite costume.
Mirror Mirror, directed by Tarsem Singh, 2012
This movie has the same director and costume designer as the last, but it is such a different beast! This one is much more humorous and silly, but the costumes are just as impressive as the ones in The Fall. Ishioka focused on crinolines in this one, and as someone who loves a big skirt, I deeply appreciate how massive she managed to make all of the dresses. Julia Roberts gets to wear the biggest, most ridiculous yet stunning dresses ever, invoking the excess of Versailles. Look at the red dress above! The embroidery and details somehow draw the eye despite how busy the rest of the design is, the sleeves are just as triumphant as the whale of a skirt, and the neckline is giving us Queen Elizabeth the first vibes in the best possible way. If you look below, you will see my all time favourite wedding dress, which Julia Roberts also was lucky enough to wear. I can't even imagine how much time and skill was put into constructing this dress, with all of the silk petal pieces in the skirt and bodice. The sleeves add a gentle quality to it, while the pieces sticking up off of the shoulder are reminiscent of a 17th century ruff.
And an honorable mention is the yellow silk cloak that Lilly Collins wore at the beginning of the film. The dress she wears under it is such a delicate princess dress, so check that one out too if you are interested in watching the movie. The cloak is so magical with the bows and pink lining, and those impeccable pleats around the yoke. Definitely a delicious costuming experience overall.
Brooklyn, directed by John Crowley, 2015
For some strange reason I had a very difficult time finding good quality photos of the costumes in this movie, but it is one of my favourite costume films. As fun as over the top, luxurious costumes can be, I still love movies that show regular clothes. Brooklyn has such an amazing array of knits and sun dresses, and I would be thrilled to have Eilis's wardrobe. Two of the costumes that stand out in my head are funny ones, mostly because they aren't meant to be amazing or noticeable. The first is that pencil skirt with the white cardigan pictured above. 1950's pencil skirts are my kryptonite, and pairing one with those shoes was a quick way to get my heart pumping. This look is so simple yet classic. It makes her seem so confident and wise, and I am definitely looking to make a skirt like that for myself now.
Eilis's gingham circle skirt with the pearl knit shirt is a costume that I day dream about. I'm not sure what it is about this pairing, but it is a look that I enjoy immensely. The colours are sophisticated, but the gingham makes sure that it isn't too fussy. And the pearls on the top are so lovely (unfortunately I couldn't find a good photo with the top in it, but trust me, it is beautiful).
But my absolute favourite costume from the entire film is the suit that Eilis got married in. This suit is a genuine 1950's suit that happened to fit Saoirse Ronan perfectly, and I love how they captured a 1950's courthouse wedding. It was common to wear a nice suit instead of a special wedding dress to get married for many years, and this one made me think of all the wedding photos I have found in antique stores from the 1940's and 50's.
White Christmas, directed by Michael Curtiz, 1954
This is the only vintage movie that I have included on my list, not because vintage movies don't have fabulous costumes, but because I have just not seen enough vintage classics to properly talk about them (I know, it's a travesty). However, this movie I have watched every single year ever since I can remember, and I have always loved the costumes. You might be familiar with the red velvet and white fur trimmed ballgowns from the final number or the blue lace dresses from the iconic 'Sisters' song, but my favourites from this film aren't recognized as often.
My first pick from this film will always be the floaty pink dress that Vera Ellen wore while dancing with Danny Kay (pictured above). This dress has always reminded me of Liesl's pink dress in The Sound of Music, but more of a grown up version. I love big sleeves and circle skirts, and the high neckline makes it so elegant. Watching that skirt swirl around the screen always makes me starry-eyed, and hope that one day I will be able to make something like that for myself.
My next favourite is the green velvet dress that Rosemary Clooney wore at the party. First of all, green velvet is practically the only choice for a holiday dress. What could be more festive than that? Secondly, the straps across the front are so modern, and they add the perfect detail to such a deceptively simple dress. They often play Rosemary Clooney's character as the older, more sensible sister, leaving Vera Ellen with the 'better' costumes. However, I have a soft spot for her elegant, more sensible looks.
Lastly, I could not talk about White Christmas without bringing up this incredible mermaid shaped dress Rosemary Clooney wears on the Ed Harrison Show. We regularly make fun of the dramatic dancing in the number she sings, but nothing can top this classic black dress. Look at that neckline detail! The dramatic mermaid silhouette! And the back has an even more dramatic deep V! If I was ever invited to the Oscars, this is the look I would go for.
Marie Antoinette, directed by Sofia Coppola, 2006
I first saw this movie in my high school social class, and I have watched it at least once a year ever since. As you will know by now (if you managed to read this whole post), I absolutely love costumes that are influenced by history, but have an edge or a twist to it. This movie fits the bill so perfectly. Milena Canonero managed to perfectly blend accurate 18th century styles and ideals with early 2006 aesthetic (this is obviously just an opinion, but since it is my blog, I am going to state it like it is a fact). My two favourite costumes from the movie are quite different. My first favourite is the blue riding suit that she wore when first introduced to Versaille (pictured below). This costume has been really researched, like most of the costumes in the film. Canonero had a fantastic grasp on French fashion of the era before she played with it, which is what makes a creative version of historical costumes beautiful instead of just sad (compare this movie to Reign, and you may see my point). I love the details of the blue outfit, with the little hat (very popular for 18th century women to wear with riding or travelling costumes) and the gathered trim.
My other favourite costume from the film is her black tulle party dress, pictured above (that picture is from the Vogue feature on the film, and all of the photos from that feature are incredible). This one is not even close to historically accurate, but it is so pretty! I could totally see something like this on the runway from John Galliano for Dior or Moschino's Fall Winter 2020 collection. I love this dress because it has the popular silhouette of the era (a low neckline, wide hip panniers to give that fabulous shape, 3/4 length sleeves), but it has been completely modernized to fit in with the 1980's music and fun, invented dance that is used in the scene that she wears the dress in. If historical accuracy is more your thing, the rest of the film has some really great looks. For me, I love the mix of modern and historical.
There are so many more movies and TV shows with beautiful stories and costumes, but these are just some of my favourites. I also wanted to give an honorable mention to the first few seasons of Outlander (especially the Paris season), some 1950's every day fun in Grantchester, some brilliant 1960's and 70's looks in Endeavour, the 2010 version of Upstairs Downstairs (that series actually rivals Downton Abbey for stunning 1930's costumes), The Durrells (more fabulous 1930's outfits), Indian Summers (even more 1930's!), Bright Start (you will sob in the movie, but the aesthetic is so stunning), and the new adaptation of Emma. Other historical suggestions include Crimson Peak for some fabulous gothic glam, and Crooked House has gothic 1950's couture vibes.
I will never turn down recommendations for good movies, so let me know if you have any other suggestions in the comments!
Thank you for reading, or just skimming,
~Katherine
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