Near the beginning of the summer I had the unique opportunity to model for Hero Images, a stock photo company. They were lovely to work with, and I am actually so thrilled with the images. This is the first time that I have had a professional photographer getting photos of me at work, instead of my designs on models.
Most of the photoshoot was very easy, since I was just doing the things that I regularly do while sewing, updating my website and Etsy, pattern drafting, etc. Although some of the photos were a bit funny to set up (such as having to pretend to talk into the phone), it was a fun time and I am so happy to have pictures of me sewing.
I think that sewing/dressmaking is one of those odd jobs that a lot of people don't know much about. There is a general idea of what you would need to do to sew clothing, but there are so many things about it that many are surprised about when I talk about it.
Although sewing is not my full time job, I have gotten an education for it, and I do sell my designs. This means that I do count myself as a professional (although still a bit of a beginner) in the field. There are a few different ways that I make my clothes-- I either start completely from scratch or I start by altering a pattern (usually a vintage one). Whether I use a pattern or not, I still have to do a lot of adjusting, measuring, and fitting.
If I am starting completely from scratch, the first step is coming up with a design. This isn't a conscious process for me, it happens when I am out, while watching TV, while daydreaming, and any other time that I might have the time to get inspired by something. Sometimes I sketch my designs out, and other times I just write them down in point form. Usually it is a mix of both, to make sure that I remember every detail that I want to include.
Once I know what I am making, I need to create the pattern for it. I usually flat draft because I find it makes sense for me, but if there is a picky detail that works better from draping, then I will use my dress form to drape it. Flat drafting is a process of using the measurements and math formulas to come up with a pattern. It is done fully on a table (or the ground, when I need more space), so you won't see exactly what it looks like in 3D until you have made the mock-up.
A mock-up (also called a 'muslin' or a 'toile') is when you use a cheaper fabric to make a first draft of your pattern. Unbleached muslin is what I use because I can write my adjustments on it easily and it can be found easily (Ikea has very nice unbleached muslin at a great price). This stage can take a short amount of time, or it can drag on, depending on how many changes you need to make to your pattern so that it fits and looks the way you want it to.
After that, a fabric has to be chosen and cut out. This may seem like a simple step, but it is actually so important. I spend a lot of time thinking about the characteristics of each type of fabric and what I want the garment to turn out like. I think about the drape (is it stiff? Do you want it to drape, or to have more structure?), the elasticity, feel of the fabric, and a million other things. You need to take into account what the garment will be used for, how often it will be worn, how it will be washed, etc.
Once I have chosen the fabric, I spend quite a bit of time thinking about the cutting layout. I will probably move the pieces around a few times to make sure that I'm using as little fabric as I can, but also ensuring that if there is a pattern it is facing the right way.
And then you have made it to the sewing step! There is so much to this step that I couldn't even put a dent in it in this post, but it is one of my favourite things to do. I love working with fabric, and I especially love the hand sewing parts that make the garment so special. Almost all of my finishing details are done by hand using couture techniques.
However, these aren't the only things that I do for my sewing. I also spend a lot of time doing photo shoots, writing and researching for blog and instagram posts, editing photos, responding to messages, keeping up my website and Etsy account, sourcing supplies, and all sorts of other odd jobs.
Thank you so much for reading!
~Katherine
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