As I have been talking about for a few weeks now, I have been working on a 1940's inspired skirt and blazer suit set. A few days ago I was able to finish it and get photos at a beautiful old (empty) church that is not far from where I live.
If you want to read more about the background of this suit, you can check out the post here.
This suit is from a pattern from the 1980's, but so many of the details were also very typical in the 1940's. The welt pocket that goes from the dart to the side seam, for example, and the two piece sleeves. The fit is also pretty stereotypical of the 1940's. During the Second World War, women's clothing became more 'masculine', with strong shoulders and a boxier fit. There were a few reasons for the huge change between 1930's and 1940's fashion: there were far more women working jobs that had been reserved for men before the war (such as mechanics and in factories), and fabric was rationed.
Because seamstresses and home sewers had to make do with as little fabric as possible, the hems shortened considerably (the 1930's had hems down to the mid-calf, while WW2 hems are mostly around the knee), and seaming got quite creative. Skirts and dresses were also only allowed to have two box pleats, and there were other rules for clothing.
The skirt is in 3 pieces - 2 in the front to create the faux wrap look, one back piece, and the zipper is in the side seam. I love the shape of this skirt, and I love that the vent (the slit or pleat put into fitted skirts so that you can walk) is in the front. I used lace hem tape to finish the skirt, and there is a zipper and a hook and eye for closure.
The blazer has quite a few lovely details, and I am thrilled with how it came out. This is the first time that I have ever properly made a blazer, and although there are a few things that could be done better, I think that I will wear it a ton in every day life.
The pattern has a slightly curved center back seam, which is great for my very curved back (I always have to alter patterns because of my atrocious posture...). It also has two piece sleeves (a classic detail in vintage suits), small shoulder pads that give it a stronger look, two welt pockets, and is fully lined.
This gorgeous church that we got the photos at was completed in 1919 and is a Provincial Heritage Resource. It has also been used as a filming location for multiple movies, such as The Assassination of Jesse James.
The 1940's have been a favourite era of mine to look at, and I think that the shapes are really comfortable, easy to wear, and flattering on pretty much every shape. The knee-length hemlines, slight A-line skirts, and unique seams make them sensible for moving around in, and the main fabrics that they used last a long time. Obviously these details are necessary, but not as alluring as the 1950's. Despite that, I have been fascinated with the fashion during WW2 since I was a child.
I think that it is a era that can often be overlooked, since it is sandwiched between the flowy, elegant fashions of the 1930's and the feminine, luxurious styles of the 50's. Designers and seamstresses during the war had to be so creative, and they did an incredible job with what they had. Plus, there are so many silhouettes and trends that were created in the 40's that we copied in the 80's, and are bringing back now!
I can't think of an era before this that encouraged women to enhance their shoulders and wear comfortable styles like they did then. And although many women in poverty had figured out how to make things with less fabric, this was the first time that the whole world had these restrictions that they needed to follow. It is like a Project Runway challenge that everyone has to follow, and everyone did it in such fabulous ways!
Another great thing about fashion in the 1940's is how they managed to get colour into their outfits through hats and shoes, patterned rayon summer dresses, purses, and red lipstick. The era had so much grey and brown in it, yet women were always innovating.
Seamstresses have always had interesting roles in history, and this era is no different. Most jackets and blazers at the time had weights in the hem to help it lie nicely on the body (you can see this technique in Chanel jackets, since they still use a gold chain along the hem to weigh it down. I would recommend checking the inside if you ever see a true Chanel jacket). In Nazi occupied cities, some seamstresses helped families smuggle valuables out of the country by sewing them into their jackets.
If you want to see some of my favourite outfits from the 40's, I have a whole Pinterest board dedicated to the era here.
I am grateful to the person who gave me this! If you have not read my other post about this suit, the fabric was actually cut out in the 1980's by the mother of a family friend. It had been forgotten about for a while, and then it was given to me since it was cut out in my size. Everything was included- the thread, shoulder pads, and everything but the buttons and lining were ready to go. This suit was 40 years in the making!
Thank you so much for reading! I hope you and your family are safe and sound (and finding things to do at home).
~K
