When I got this pattern (a true vintage one), it made me think of the Fendi Spring 2018 ad campaign that I fell in love with the minute I saw it in a magazine. The ads focused on big sleeves, mixing patterns, and a very vintage/retro look. Large brands like that are often inspired by vintage clothing (it is a part of the brand identity in Chanel and Dior, and brands like Dolce and Gabbana rely heavily on retro inspiration), but I especially loved the longer skirts that were starting to come in.
This length of skirt (about mid-calf) started in the 1920's, and was especially popular in the 1930's (and then again in the 70's). The 1930's is one of my absolute favourite eras clothing-wise because it is so unique and innovative. The 1930's was the era that bias clothing came in. To have a bias cut gown means that the grainline of the pieces are lined up on the diagonal of the fabric (not entirely sure that any of that makes sense.... basically, you are cutting on a 45 degree angle to the finished edge of the cloth). What this does is gives the clothing a bit of a stretch, without any kind of elastic or rubber added. If you have a slip dress, it is likely bias cut.
Clothing before the 30's were never cut on the bias because it takes up so much cloth. However, the end product is a garment that hugs the curves and is far more slinky than any other type of garment before it.
The 1930's also bring the invention of the wrap dress (invented by my favourite designer, Charles James)! Fashion in this decade includes the more common use of pants (thanks to Marlene Dietrich), a rise in popularity of beach pajamas and lounging pajamas, and the first time that women could reasonably leave their home without any constricting undergarments on (although there still were girdles and other undergarments that were constantly used).
This dress includes some of my favourite details that were common in this era. Starting with the skirt: I have a very similar 1930's skirt pattern that has the same length, same 6 panels, and similar a-line silhouette. 30's skirts have a unique shape that wasn't seen before, and not often seen after until the 70's. They are always longer--until the late 30's as we get closer to the 2nd World War--and they have enough fullness for ease of movement, but are cut close enough that they look lean and elegant. All of the biggest Hollywood stars wore skirts in the shape, either this length or longer.
The other details that I love so dearly are in the bodice. There are 12 pintucks at the high neckline (which I was so nervous to do, but ended up putting them together in under an hour without any issues), and gathering at the waist, which gives it a bit of an Edwardian shape. The dress closes with a side lapped zipper (hand sewn, as most of my zippers are), and a back keyhole. The neckline is finished with bias binding, which gives it such a smooth, light look. The 1930's are a relatively simple time silhouette-wise, but they made up for that with incredible details. Lace, pintucks, gathering, interesting seaming, unusual collar shapes... The dresses from this era could take anything you throw at them.
The sleeves on this dress are a bishop style, with them fitting closely at the sleeve head and billowing out at the cuff. The original pattern has it gathered at the top, but I decided to alter it a bit to suit my taste better.
Other than the sleeve adjustment, I was able to make this pattern with zero alterations for fit! I find that vintage patterns often work well with my proportions, unlike many modern day patterns.
This dress took me a little less than 3 days, and I can see myself wearing it again and again in the future!
Thanks for reading!
~Katherine